First, consider the end use of the quilt. A quilt that is for display only can be quilted using fragile metallic threads, or quilted minimally while a quilt for everyday use must be sturdy and washable. You may choose to machine quilt in an overall pattern, tie with perle cotton or hand quilt an elaborate design.

Use the piecing to guide you. One easy way to machine quilt is to "stitch in the ditch" this means to stitch between the patches. (see illustration) This is a great way to emphasize a certain portion of the design. If you are a beginner machine quilter this is one of the easiest methods - use a matching quilting thread and the stitching (and any mistakes!) will be nearly invisible but there will be dimension to your quilt.

Try freeform quilting. Designer Joy Hoffman uses a meandering loop in a variegated thread to quilt her Tropical Punch wallhanging. Lower the feed dogs on your machine and use the embroidery foot. Experiment until you find the setting and motion that works best for you. This can be a lot of fun, especially since you can make it up as you go!

Use a stencil or trace a design from a magazine or coloring book. Choose a design that complements your quilt.

Quilting methods can be combined - use a delicate hand quilted motif in the center of a block and machine quilt the borders.

Color: Choose a color theme for your scrappy quilt. For example - jewel tones, earth tones, red white and blue, etc. The more scraps used, the more interesting the quilt. Not enough scraps in one color theme? No problem! Plan a charm quilt to use those scraps. Choose a shape from our shape templates and acrylic tools and start cutting. The single shape will unify an assortment of colors.

Contrast: Contrast is important for any quilt. Be sure you have a good balance of lights, mediums and darks.

Prepare: Wash and press scraps before cutting.

Thread: A medium beige or medium gray thread will blend with most fabrics.

Cut 3" squares of fabric, enough to fit the border length.

Fold square in half on the diagonal, press (see illus. 1):. Fold in half again on the diagonal (see illus. 2) and press (see illus. 3). Repeat for each square.

Tuck Prairie Points for one border inside one another as shown in illustration 4 and baste. Check length of Prairie Point border against quilt and adjust the tuck of several points if necessary to fit quilt. Stitch basted Prairie Points to quilt top with points facing the middle of the quilt using a 1/4" seam (see illus. 5).

After quilting is complete, trim backing of quilt even with raw edge of top and trim batting 1/4" shorter than the top. Turn Prairie Points to the outside, turn backing under 1/4" to cover stitching line on Prairie Points. Stitch down by hand.

Cut a strip 6" wide by length of the border of your quilt (round up to nearest number divisible by 3).

Mark the lengthwise center of the strip. Beginning on the left side of the strip mark every 3". On the right side of the strip beginning 1.5" from the top, mark every 3" (see illus. 6). Carefully cut on each mark to but not through the center of the strip. Cut away the rectangles at the top of the strip.

Begin with square at top left of the strip. Fold bottom left corner to top right (see illus. 7). Press. Fold top left of resulting triangle to bottom right and press (see illus. 8).

On the right side of the strip, take the bottom right corner of the square and fold it to the top left. Press. Take right point of triangle and fold it down to bottom left and press. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all squares have been folded and pressed.

Press all points to one side. Baste to border and stitch with 1/4" seam. After quilting is complete, trim backing even with raw edge of top and batting 1/4" shorter. Fold over raw edge of backing and stitch down by hand.

Pin appliqués from the wrong side to avoid tangling the thread on pins.

A small pillow in your lap will support the work and improve posture and can act as a pincushion as well when stitching by hand.

Use thread to match the appliqué, not the background fabric.

Stitches should be no farther apart than 1/8" - any farther and unsightly gaps may occur.

When quilting appliqué designs, begin by quilting a scant 1/8" around the appliqué. This will give the appliqué added dimension, popping it off the background.

Appliqué is a natural for embellishments. Consider adding beads, fabric paints or trims for added interest. Accent a pattern in the fabric or create an original design.

Trace or transfer appliqué shape onto fabric, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance between motifs. Cut out carefully.

Transfer appliqué design to background fabric.

Using bamboo creaser, fold over seam allowance (following traced line) and crease to wrong side.

Place appliqué in position and pin from the wrong side.

Place threaded needle under appliqué and come up just on the appliqué edge of the creased seam allowance. Pull thread through. Insert needle into background fabric directly across from where the needle came up, move needle up under the appliqué, emerging about 1/8" from last stitch. This is a blind stitch and after some practice it will be virtually invisible!

Tip: No melt mylar templates can be traced for the appliqué shapes and then used to trace shape to fabric. Place the template on the wrong side of the cut out shape and press the seam allowances with a bamboo pointer creaser for a sharper crease.

Transfer appliqué design to background fabric.

Copy motif onto dull side of freezer paper. Cut out exactly on line - DO NOT add a seam allowance.

Iron freezer paper motif, shiny side down onto motif fabric. Cut out shape adding 1/4" seam allowance. DO NOT remove freezer paper.

Place on background fabric and pin.

Bring needle up just on the outside edge of the freezer paper template, but under the appliqué. Using point of needle push seam allowance under following freezer paper edge as a guide while blind stitching appliqué. (Click on image for larger view.)

Transfer or trace design to background fabric.

Transfer motif to appliqué fabric.

Cut out motif; consider using a wavy edge or a pinking edge scissors for added dimension.

Place motif on background fabric and pin.

Stitch with decorative stitches by machine or hand inside the edge of the appliqué leaving the edge free to ravel.

This type of appliqué looks especially well with embellishments such as buttons, beads etc. (Click on image for larger view.)

Before fusing motifs to the quilt, check placement of all elements of the appliquéd block. Now is the time to make any changes!

Add a 1/4" overlap to any piece that is to be placed underneath another piece. (For example, see tulip center in Amish Tulips Quilt.)

To save time, fuse all elements using the same fabric at once.

Border 1

Using 3" strips laid right side together (a light and a dark - this is also a great way to use up scraps) cut half square triangles. DO NOT SEPARATE THE CUT TRIANGLES. They are ready to sew! Sew together as illustrated.

Note: Use light and dark or medium fabrics.

See Easy Angle™ Tutorial

Border 2

Place 3" strips right side together (medium and dark fabrics) and using the Easy Angle™ cut quadrilateral shape with 6 1/2" base. From a 4" strip of light fabric cut triangles. Stitch light triangles to short side of quadrilaterals. Join as shown in illustration to create the scrolling ribbon.

Note: Use light and dark or medium fabrics.

See Easy Angle™ Tutorial

Border 3

Place 3" strips right sides together and cut quadrilateral with 6 1/2" base. Begin by sewing the straight side of one quadrilateral to the longer "bottom" of contrasting quadrilateral (see illustration). Alternating fabrics, sew quadrilateral together as illustrated.

Note: Use assorted fabrics.

See Easy Angle™ Tutorial

Border 4

Cut 3" squares from assorted prints and triangles from a 3" strip of background fabric. Assemble as shown.

Note: Use assorted prints and background fabric.

See Easy Angle™ Tutorial

Flex Design Rule&™

The FlexDesign Rule™ is a wonderful way to create an unusual border. Follow these easy steps.

1. 1. Quilt as desired.
2. 2. Bend the ruler into whatever shape pleases you and works with your quilt.
3. 3. Trace the design on your border but DO NOT CUT.
4. 4. Sew single fold binding to the marked line (single fold will be easier to sew on curves and dips).
5. 5. Trim the seam allowance.
6. 6. Fold binding to back of quilt and slip stitch in place.

For quilts using these techniques go to:

1. On the Web Wall Hanging
2. Pam's Pumpkins Table Runner
3. Anything Goes Quilt

Plan your design before you begin. Lay out your design elements on the quilt before sewing. Experiment with different combinations of color and texture before you commit by sewing them down.

Choose your embellishments according to the use and care of the quilt. For example, a sturdy rickrack is a good choice for a child's bed quilt. Dainty glass beads are better suited to a wall hanging that will be laundered infrequently.

Choose a design feature or color from the quilt to emphasize. Follow the swirl of an exotic paisley or choose an accent color from a print.

Let your imagination take over! Use rickrack, ribbon, buttons, beads, charms, and silk flowers; whatever you can sew down. Use a little - use a lot. Have fun with the process and you will be amazed at what you will accomplish!

Mark the curved edges at the match points using a fine point marker.

Clip no deeper than 1/8" at markings on the concave edge of the fabric (see illustration 1).

Place curves edges together matching markings (see illustration 2). Pin at both side edges. Working toward the center, ease in fullness evenly over the curve by pinning at each marking (see illustration 3).

Stitch slowly using 1/4" seam, taking care not to stitch over pins. Press seam toward darker fabric.

It adds a beautiful border to any quilting project

It's width accommodates high loft quilt filling

It's pre-folded and ready to use

It's flexible and fits around curves smoothly

With narrow side up, fold Quilt Binding over edge of project and stitch as close to the edge of the Quilt Binding as possible.

To bind around a corner, sew to edge of fabric, remove from machine, and clip threads. DO NOT CUT QUILT BINDING.

Fold Quilt Binding around corner and pin, making sure that the pleat in the Quilt Binding is neatly mitered at the corner of the fabric.

Place fabric under pressure foot at the mitered pleat and begin to sew, making sure to backtack at the corner.

Unfold Quilt Binding and, with right sides together, match crease of tape with seam line. Make sure narrow side of tape is closest to the seam line. Sew, tape side up, in crease of tape.

Turn Quilt Binding to the back, pin and stitch "in the ditch".

To bind around a corner, apply Quilt Binding as in previous 2 steps cutting tape off at corner. With new piece of binding, apply as in first step, leaving 3/4" of binding extending beyond corner. Fold extension to the back, then fold bias tape to the back. Pin and stitch "in the ditch".

Mark scalloped edge on a quilt but DO NOT cut on that edge until the binding is sewn on. If the edge is cut before binding you risk stretching and fraying of the scallops.

Baste along the marked edge. This will hold layers together and keep them from shifting while binding.

Always use a bias binding to bind curved or scalloped edges. A single bias binding cut at 1 1/4" is best. (Wrights Wide Single Fold Bias Tape is the right size and comes in many easy to match colors!) A double binding is too bulky at the inside corner of the scallop.

To make a softly rounded corner, start marking the quilt edge with Easy Scallop positioned right to the adjacent edge. To make a pointed corner or "ear", begin with half of scallop at the corner.

A scalloped edge can take an ordinary quilt and make it extra-ordinary!

Sandwich edge of material between folded edges of quilt binding, pinning binding in place as you go. Leave 1" extra quilt binding at beginning and ending points. Remove stitches from binding 1" from cut ends.

Fold bias tape header 1/2", wrong side to wrong side. Press.

Turn edge of ruffle back 1/4" creating rolled hem, encasing raw edge. Stitch.

Ruffle should be slightly shorter than bias tape header. Finish pinning quilt binding in place at edge of material. Repeat for second end of binding. Sew binding around entire piece of material with stitching line 1/4" down from edge of binding.

Choose a simple pattern with large pieces. Bear of the North is a good quilt choices for flannel.

Use a walking foot (sometimes called an even feed foot) for piecing. This will prevent the flannel from shifting during stitching.

Use steam to press seams. Press bulky seams open.

Use a lightweight batting - the flannel alone is quite heavy.

Quilting can be minimal on a flannel quilt. Tiny hand stitches will disappear into the flannel's loft. Instead, consider tying or using large hand stitches in perle cotton. Minimal machine quilting is another good option.

Remember to stop and clean your machine frequently. Working with flannel will build up a large amount of lint under the sole plate.

Due to the bulk of a flannel quilt, a wider than usual binding is required. Wright's Fleece Binding would be perfect on a flannel quilt!

Consider using flannel to back a pieced cotton quilt. This is the best of both worlds - the warm snuggly feeling of flannel on the back, and the top pieced in your favorite pattern in regular cotton.